SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA, Spain — For more than a thousand years, pilgrims have journeyed here.
Some came seeking an indulgence. Others came seeking God. Many simply came searching for meaning.
I arrived in Galicia, the autonomous region of Spain surrounding this ancient city, expecting to encounter one of Christendom’s greatest destinations. The cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, which according to ancient tradition houses the relics of St. James the Great, is the terminus of the Way of St. James. Better known by its Spanish name, Camino de Santiago, the pilgrimage route runs for hundreds of miles across multiple European countries.
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Instead, I found one of the most visible displays of antisemitism I have encountered anywhere in Europe.
Directly opposite the cathedral stands the Pazo de Raxoi, the stately building that serves as the seat of the local government and houses offices of the Galician regional government. Hanging prominently on the facade facing the cathedral is the so-called Palestinian flag.
Some will dismiss objections to the flag as overreaction. They will insist it merely represents solidarity with Palestinians or support for a future Palestinian state.
Today, after the Hamas terrorist atrocities on Oct. 7, 2023, and amid a surge of Jew-hatred across Europe, the flag has a different meaning. It has become the preferred symbol of a movement that excuses terrorism, demonizes Israel, and treats the world’s only Jewish state as illegitimate.
This is not occurring in a vacuum. For years, leftists in Santiago de Compostela and elsewhere in Spain have pursued anti-Israel boycotts, divestment campaigns, and symbolic sanctions. Local governments have declared themselves as “Israeli apartheid-free zones,” only for Spanish courts to strike down such actions.
The target is always the same.
Only one country is routinely singled out for this treatment. Only one is subjected to endless political litmus tests and symbolic condemnations. Only one happens to be Jewish.
Walking through Santiago de Compostela’s historic core, I repeatedly encountered troubling signs (literally and figuratively). A bookstore prominently displayed in its front window a children’s book whose message was unmistakably hostile toward Israel and deeply troubling given the audience at which it was aimed. Elsewhere, mailboxes belonging to Correos, Spain’s postal service, had been plastered with left-wing stickers and flyers.
Individually, perhaps these incidents could be dismissed. Together, they paint a picture of a city where anti-Israel hate speech has become so commonplace that few even stop to question it.
When a government building flies the so-called Palestinian flag, when anti-Israel messaging permeates public spaces and when politicians repeatedly single out the world’s only Jewish state for condemnation, many Jews reasonably conclude that something more sinister is at work.
This is, after all, the country that expelled its Jewish population in the 15th century and helped bring an end to one of the most vibrant Jewish communities in the world.
To their credit, the leadership of Galicia’s regional government recognizes what is wrong locally.
A spokesman for Alfonso Rueda, president of Galicia and leader of the conservative People’s Party, released this statement: “Jews are indeed warmly welcomed in Galicia, along with people of all beliefs and backgrounds. The intolerance that certain political groups show does not, in any case, represent the majority of Galician people, who are respectful and welcoming toward everyone who visits our region.”
That statement matters because it reflects my own experience.
The Galician people were gracious, hospitable, and welcoming. The region’s churches, food, wine, landscapes, and history are extraordinary.
My criticism is not directed at Galicia, its people, or its regional government. It is directed at a radical political culture within Santiago de Compostela’s local government that has fermented Jew-hatred.
Flying the so-called Palestinian flag is not a neutral act.
It is a statement.
And in today’s Europe, where Jews face growing hostility and antisemitic incidents continue to rise, it is a statement that functions as a figurative middle finger directed at Israel and, by extension, the Jewish people.
If I were Jewish, I would think twice before returning to Santiago de Compostela unless and until the city elects a different local government.
Let me also be clear about something that too many leftists deliberately blur.
Standing with Jews and standing with Israel does not require unquestioning support for every decision made by the Israeli government.
There is an enormous difference between criticizing a government’s actions and singling out the world’s only Jewish state for condemnation while excusing or ignoring the conduct of others. There is an equally important difference between debating Israeli government policy and creating an environment in which Jews feel unwelcome or targeted because of their identity, heritage, and faith.
One is politics. The other is antisemitism.
Civilized people — whether Christian, Jewish, or otherwise — should have the courage to condemn it.
Santiago de Compostela should be known for pilgrims, saints, and the faith once delivered. It should be known for the hundreds of thousands who arrive after walking across Spain in search of spiritual renewal. It should be known for the magnificent cathedral that has stood at the heart of Christendom for centuries.
Instead, local politicians have chosen to make it a stage for Jew hatred. That decision diminishes not only the city they govern but one of the most important religious destinations in West.
Dennis Lennox is a travel columnist for the Christian Post, a political commentator and public affairs consultant. Follow @dennislennox on X.